Jun 042017
 

For the model were used one skein of electric-blue knitting-worsted and a ball of gray Angora wool, with a hook large enough to carry the yarn easily.
Make a chain of 3 stitches, join.
1. Seven doubles in ring.
2. Two doubles in each double, taking both veins of stitch.
3. A double in double, 2 in next; repeat.
4. A double in each of 2 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.
5. A double in each of 3 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.
Continue in this way, adding 1 double between widenings each row, until you have 30 doubles in each section—between widenings—or more, if a larger crown is desired.
33. A double in each of 7 doubles, miss 1; repeat.
34. A double in each of 6 doubles, miss 1; repeat.
35. A double in each of 2 doubles, miss 1; repeat.
36 to 45. A double in each stitch.
46, 47. With gray Angora wool, make a double in each stitch and fasten off the last row neatly.
Cover a large, flat button-mold with the blue wool: Make a chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain make 8 doubles; make 2 doubles in each of 8 doubles, working in both veins of stitch; then make 1 double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat. Continue to work around and around, widening to keep the work flat, until you have a circle which will cover the button-mold, say 6 rounds; then work once around without widening, slip in the mold, * miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until the cover is closed.
For the edge of the button and the cord around top of band either the double chain may be made, an ordinary chain filled with double crochet, or—better still—the cord may be knotted by what is called the “fool’s delight” method—which seems a very sensible method, indeed: Take a length of the Angora wool six times as long as the cord is wanted to be; indeed, it will be better to start with a longer piece, for fear it may “take up” more rapidly than anticipated. Make a slip or half knot at one end of the yarn, pass the other end down through this to form a loop, then tie the ends of the yarn together. Hold this knot between thumb and forefinger of one hand (say the right), with the yarn which pulls through the half knot under the same hand, and the loop which was formed held on the forefinger, holding the yarn which does not pull in the left hand; pass the forefinger of left hand through the loop on right forefinger from front to back, catch up and draw through the non-pulling or left-hand thread—exactly as you would make a chain-stitch in crochet—transfer the knot which ties the two ends together to thumb and forefinger of left hand, keeping the loop over forefinger, and draw up the pulling yarn, or that passed originally through the half knot. Now the position of the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the same in the left hand as formerly in the right. Continue by passing forefinger of right hand through the loop on left forefinger, catching up the non-pulling thread and drawing it through to form the new loop (on right forefinger again), transfer the knot from left hand to right, and pull up, repeating the process from beginning. This is really a sort of double chain, and when one has learned to make it evenly and well—as may be done with a little practise—it will be found superior for bags, lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring or a cord.
Sew this cord evenly around button and top of band, and the cap is completed.

Jun 022017
 

Fill two shuttles, one with a light colour, say, Bleu de France 344, the other with a darker, such as Jaune-Rouille 365, and two numbers coarser than the thread you intend to use for the crochet. Begin with the dark colour and make: * 4 double, 1 picot, 8 double, 1 picot, 4 double, close the ring. With both shuttles, the light colour in the left hand: 4 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 4 double, put the right hand thread through the picot of the first circle; then add: 4 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 4 double.

Materials: Fil d’Alsace D.M.C in balls Nos. 30 to 70, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50.
Colours: Bleu de France 344 and Jaune-Rouille 365.
With the shuttle, filled with the dark colour: 5 double, pass the thread through the picot of the first ring, make 8 double, 1 picot, 5 double, close the ring. Then, leaving a short length of thread between, make: 4 double, put the thread through the picot of the preceding ring, 8 double, 1 picot, 4 double, close the ring **; then repeat from * to **.
When you have thus made two equal lengths, join them together with crochet, using a thread two numbers finer than the tatting thread; if the latter for instance was Fil d’Alsace No. 30, you would take No. 50 of the same material for the crochet—1 plain in the 1st picot, 5 chain, 1 plain in the middle picot, 5 chain, 1 plain in the 3rd and 1st picot = then, over 5 chain: 1 sextuple cluster stitch, 5 chain.
In the row on the opposite side of the tatting, take out the crochet needle at the 3rd chain stitch and put it in from beneath into the corresponding stitch of the opposite row; in this manner join the two insertions together so as to complete the pattern.

May 302017
 

Use eiderdown or very heavy Germantown worsted, with a hook large enough to carry the wool without fraying.

Chain 4 stitches, join.

1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches of chain, and 2 through the ring; take up wool and work off all together, chain 1 to close the star, draw a loop through eye of star (under 1 chain just made), another through back part of last loop, and 2 in ring; work off as before, and repeat until you have made 6 stars; join.
2. Make 12 stars in the row, taking the 4th loop of each star in same stitch with last stitch of preceding star, and 5th in stitch ahead, so that you get 2 stars over each star of preceding row.
3. Make 16 stars, widening 4 times.
4, 5, 6. Leave 4 stars for back of neck and work back and forth for 3 rows. Break wool at end of each row and fasten in at beginning, so the stars will come on the right side; chain 3, draw 2 loops through 2d and 3d stitches of chain, then proceed as usual.
Make 4 rows of doubles around the lower edge, then a row of stars entirely around the hood, widening by putting an extra star at each corner of front to prevent drawing.

For the rosette: Chain 3, join; chain 7, * a double treble in ring, chain 3, repeat from * 6 times, and join to 4th of 7 chain. Run ribbon in and out the spaces, sew the rosette in place, and finish with ties of ribbon.
This hood is easily enlarged, by following general directions, and any stitch, plain or fancy, may be used for it.

May 292017
 


One color or two may be used for making this pretty jacket, which is extremely modish, and very comfortable for the cool days and evenings sure to be experienced during summer outings. Six skeins of fourfold Germantown will be sufficient; or four skeins of one color for the body and two of white for the border, if made in two colors.
Make a chain of 54 stitches, turn.
1. Miss 3, a double in next, * chain 1, miss 1, 1 double in next; repeat from * across, making 26 doubles; turn.
2. Chain 2, a double under 1 chain, * chain 1, a double under next 1 chain; repeat across, turn.
Repeat 2d row until you have completed a strip 22 inches long, for the back, bringing the work to the shoulder.
Now work back and forth for one shoulder and front, repeating 2d row until you have made 9 doubles; turn, chain 2, and repeat until you have made 4 rows.
In the next row widen by making 2 doubles, 1 chain between, in center of row, finishing row as usual; widen in the center of every 8th row until you have 15 doubles in the row, then continue without widening until the front is of the same length as the back.
Leave 8 doubles for back of neck and on the remaining 9 doubles work the other front to correspond.
For the border: Commence (with the border-color, if two colors are used) at corner of left front, make a treble under 1 chain (chain 3 for 1st treble), * chain 1, a treble under next 1 chain; repeat from * all around, putting 2 trebles with 1 chain between in same stitch at corners, and on the shoulders at the neck to shape the collar.
Make another row in the same way, then work in seed-stitch as you did the body of the jacket (a double under 1 chain, chain 1) for 8 rows, widening the same stitches at corners each time.
Fold the garment at the shoulders, bringing fronts and back together. Commencing in 10th chain from bottom of front and back, work in the usual way for 25 stitches, a double under each chain. Work from underarm around the armscye until the sleeve is 12 inches in length, or as long as desired, then make the 2 rows of spaces, in treble crochet, as before and finish with 7 rows of seed-stitch, same as body of jacket.
For the picot edge: Two doubles in 2 stitches, chain 3 for a picot; repeat.
The stitch given is very simple and pretty, but any other fancy stitch may be used that is liked. Among others may be named Lancaster-stitch, made as follows: Having a chain of an even number of stitches, turn.
1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each remaining stitch, turn.
2. Chain 3, wool over, draw a loop through 1st stitch, over, draw a loop through next stitch, over, draw a loop through same stitch, over, draw a loop through next stitch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, * chain 4, a double in 1st stitch of the chain just made, which closes or joins the cluster of loops, over, draw a loop through same stitch with last loop of preceding cluster, over, draw a loop through next stitch, over, draw a loop through same stitch, over, draw a loop through next stitch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, and repeat from *; turn.
3. A double in 1st space, double around the thread between 4 chain and cluster; repeat, ending with a double in top of 3 chain with which last row started. Repeat 2d and 3d rows for the pattern.
The bird’s-eye-stitch is simple and pleasing: Having a chain of desired length, turn.
1. Miss 1, a double in each stitch of chain, turn.
2. A double in double, taking front loop of stitch in last row, a double in next double, taking back loop; repeat to end, and repeat 2d row.
Still another pretty stitch, easily adjusted to any garment, is as follows: Chain a number of stitches divisible by 3, turn.
1. Miss 1, a double in each remaining stitch of chain, turn.
2. Chain 1, a double in each double of last row, turn.
3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, * wool over, insert hook in 3d stitch of 1st row, take up wool and draw through, (over, draw through 2 stitches) twice, miss 1, a double in each of next 2 doubles; repeat from * to end of row, turn.
4. Same as 2d row.
5. Chain 1, a double in each of 1st 2 doubles, * wool over and make a treble as before, inserting the hook under the treble of 3d row, miss 1, a double in each of 2 stitches; repeat from * to end, turn. Repeat 4th and 5th rows.
And another still: Make a chain of length required, turn.
1. Miss 3, a treble in next stitch, * miss 1, 2 trebles in next stitch, repeat to end of row, turn.
2. Chain 3, 2 trebles between each group of 2 trebles in last row; repeat. Repeat 2d row.
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Tam-o’-Shanter in Double Crochet